Posts mit dem Label Modular werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label Modular werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen

Montag, 21. November 2016

Burgdorf Rundschal

Garne mit langem Farbverlauf eignen sich besonders gut für modulares Stricken, d.h. für Strickstücke, die sich aus mehreren geometrischen Formen zusammensetzen - so auch für diesen Rundschal, der sich aus gestrickten Trapezen zusammensetzt.
 



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This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Die englische Version dieser Anleitung findet sich hier.
An english version of this pattern can be found in this blogpost.

Material
  • ca.100 gramm Lace Garn - Ich habe Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 285 verwendet
  • 3.25mm Nadeln - ich habe eine lange Rundstricknadel verwendet, man kann aber auch gerade Nadeln verwenden, hierbei ist es aber bequemer wenn man eine dritte Nadel hat, da man jeweils rechtwinklig zur Arbeit Maschen aufnimmt
  • einen Maschenmarkierer
  • Garnrest (für den provisorischen Maschenanschlag)
  • eine Nähnadel für den Maschenstich

Techniken

Maschenprobe und Grösse
Kraus rechts gestrickt ergaben sich bei mir 13 Stiche auf 5 cm Breite und 24 Reihen auf 5 cm Höhe.
Ich mag es am liebsten, wenn ich Rundschals zweimal um den Hals legen kann, daher habe ich instgesamt 24 Trapeze gestrickt. Der Schal war 22 cm breit und hatte einen Umfang von 120 cm, und ich habe 100 gr Lace-Garn verstrickt.

Konstruktion
Die Zeichnung unten zeigt, wie der Schal konstruiert ist. Er besteht aus trapezförmigen Modulen, die rechtwinklig ineinandergreifen. Am oberen Ende des Schals wird das letzte Trapez mit dem zweiten Trapez verbunden und das vorletzte mit dem zu allerst gestrickten.

 
Auf dem Bild auf der rechten Seite sieht man, wie die Trapeze übereinander liegen. Trapez 2 liegt rechtwinklig auf der kürzeren Schenkelseite von Trapez 1. Von dieser Seite werden Stiche aufgenommen und abgestrickt - dazu kommen die restlichen Stiche des provisorischen Maschenanschlags.
Trapez 3 liegt wiederum rechtwinklig auf Trapez 2. Hierfür werden Stiche von der Schenkelseite von Trapez 2 aufgenommen und abgestrickt - hinzu kommen die restlichen Stiche von Trapez 1.
Jedes weitere Trapez liegt rechtwinklig auf dem vorherigen auf - d.h. es werden Stiche von der kurzen Schenkelseite aufgenommen - und es verwendet die restlichen Stiche vom vorletzten Trapez.
 
 
Anleitung

Provisorischer Maschenanschlag von 80 Maschen, d.h. 80 Maschen mit Garnrest auf die Nadel aufhäkeln.

Davon 30 Maschen auf die rechte Nadel nehmen (ohne sie mit dem Arbeitsgarn abzustricken - diese Stiche werden erst wieder für Trapez 2 benötigt), dann einen Maschenmarkierer setzen, und die restlichen 50 Stiche normal abstricken (mit Arbeitsgarn)


Trapez 1
R1: ssk, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
R2: erste Masche wie zum links stricken abheben, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
R3: ssk, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihen 2 und 3 noch 18 weitere Male stricken.
Die letzte Reihe bestand aus 30 Maschen - diese werden erst wieder für Trapez 3 benötigt.
Das Strickstück sollte jetzt etwa wie in Foto 1 aussehen.

Trapez 2
R1: den Maschenmarkierer platzieren, dann 20 Stiche von der kurzen Seite (Kettrand) von Trapez 1 aufnehmen und abstricken, anschliessend die restlichen 30 Stiche vom provisorischen Maschenanschlag abstricken. Nun sollten zwischen Maschenmarkierer und Ende wieder 50 Stiche sein und das Strickstück sollte ähnlich wie in Foto 2 aussehen.
R2: ssk, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
R3: erste Masche wie zum links stricken abheben, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
R4: ssk, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihen 3 und 4 noch 18 weitere Male stricken. Jetzt sollten zwischen dem Ende der Reihe und dem Maschenmarkierer noch 30 "aktive" Stiche von Trapez zwei sein. Diese werden für das nächste Trapez stillgelegt und erst im übernächsten wieder verwendet.


Trapez 3
R1: den Maschenmarkierer platzieren, dann 20 Stiche von der kurzen Seite von Trapez 1 aufnehmen und abstricken, anschliessend die restlichen 30 Stiche vom provisorischen Maschenanschlag abstricken. Zwischen Maschenmarkierer und dem Ende der Reihe sollten jetzt 50 Stiche sein. Das Strickstück sollte ähnlich aussehen wie auf Foto 3 gezeigt.
R2: ssk, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
R3: erste Masche wie zum links stricken abheben, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
R4: ssk, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Die Reihen 3 und 4 noch 18 weitere Male wiederholen (nach einigen Wiederholungen sollte das Strickstück ähnlich aussehen wie auf Foto 4) - nach den Wiederholungen befinden sich 30 "aktive" Stiche zwischen dem Maschenmarkierer und dem Ende der Reihe - diese Stiche werden für das nächste Trapez stillgelegt und erst wieder im übernächsten Trapez gestrickt.
Repeat rows 3 and 4, 18 more times (after a few times the upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 4) -> there are now 30 "active" stitches for this trapezoid - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid.

Trapez 4 = Trapez 3

Trapeze 3 und 4 so lange wiederholen bis das Strickstück die gewünschte Länge hat.
Für den Rundschal auf den Fotos habe ich insgesamt 24 Trapeze gestrickt. Dies gab eine Länge, die bequem 2x um den Hals passt.

Das Garn abschneiden, aber einen genügend langen Rest dran lassen, um 30 Stiche (Maschenstich) zu stricken.

Die Stiche vom provisorischen Maschenstich auf eine Nadel nehmen (ich hatte keine zweite 3.25mm-Nadel, daher habe ich eine etwas kleinere genommen (3mm) - das geht auch.
Zur Orientierung ist es hilfreich, dabei einen Maschenmarkierer zwischen die beiden ersten Trapeze zu setzen (d.h. unter dem allerersten Trapez befinden sich 50 Stiche, unter dem zweiten 30).

Nun das zuletzt gestrickte Trapez mit dem zweiten zusammenhalten (siehe Foto 5) und mit Maschenstich verbinden - hierzu das Garn verwenden, dass am Ende des Strickens übriggelassen wurde.

Von der Seite (Kettrand) des letzten Trapezes 20 Stiche aufnehmen, aber dabei nicht abstricken. Zusammen mit den restlichen Stiches des vorletzten Trapezes sind jetzt 50 Maschen auf dieser Nadel. Diese mit dem unteren Rand des allerersten Trapezes zusammenhalten (siehe Foto 6) und mit Maschenstich verbinden.

Die Enden vernähen und vorsichtig aufspannen.

Donnerstag, 17. November 2016

Burgdorf Cowl

Modular knitting is always great to show off yarn with a longer color gradient. This cowl makes no exception. It is knitted flat in trapezoids at right angles to each other. When it's long enough it is  worked into a cowl by grafting.


This cowl is named after the lovely town of Burgdorf in Switzerland where I spend a wonderful time at a friend's place. It's where knitted this cowl.
 

 
Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.




A German version of this pattern is available in this blogpost.
Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.
 
Materials
  • about 100 grams of lace weight yarn - I used Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 285
  • 3.25mm needles - I recommend long circulars, you can use straight needles as well, but you might need 3 needles at times (e.g. when you pick up stitches to start a new trapezoid or when you graft the ends together at the end); I used rather short circulars
  • scrap yarn for provisional CO
  • one stitch marker
  • a tapestry needle for grafting and for weaving in ends

Techniques

Gauge and Size

When knitting in garter stitch 13 stitches gave 5 cm in width, and 12 garter stitch ridges (i.e. 24 rows) 5 cm in height.

I knitted a total of 24 trapezoids (using up my 100 grams of lace weight yarn). After blocking my cowl measured 22 cm in width and 120 cm in circumference.


Construction

The picture below shows the general construction. The cowl is made from modules in trapezoid shape that build on each other. In the end the upper edge of the last trapezoid is grafted to the lower edge of the 2nd one - and the lower edge of the very first trapezoid is grafted to the upper edge of the one but last trapezoid plus a few picked up stitches.

The picture to the right shows how the first trapezoid sections fit together. Trapezoid 2 is knitted at right angles to trapezoid 1 (picking up stitches from trapezoid 1). Trapezoid 3 is knitted on top of trapezoid 1, using the leftover stitches from trapezoid 1 and stitches picked up from the side of trapezoid 2. Trapezoid 4 in turn is knitted at right angles to trapezoid 3, using stitches picked up from the side trapezoid 3 and the leftover stitches from trapezoid 2. And so on ...


 
Instructions

PCO 80 with scrap yarn
Slip 30 sts, place marker, k50 with working yarn


Trapezoid 1
R1: ssk, k to m
R2: sl1, k to end
R3: ssk, k to m
Repeat rows 2 and 3 18 more times
There are now 30 stitches with working yarn on your needles - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid
Your piece should now look like in photo 1.

Trapezoid 2
R1: place marker and pick up and knit 20 stitches from the slip stitch edge of trapezoid 1, then go on and knit the 30 sts left of the provisional CO -> between your stitch marker and the end there are now 50 stitches. Your piece should look like in photo 2.
R2: ssk, k to m
R3: sl1, k to end
R4: ssk, k to m
Repeat rows 3 and 4, 18 more times -> there are now 30 "active" stitches for trapezoid 2 - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid


Trapezoid 3
R1: place marker and pick up and knit 20 stitches from the slip stitch edge of the last trapezoid, then go on and knit the 30 sts left of the last but one trapezoid  -> between your stitch marker and the end there are now 50 stitches. The upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 3.
R2: ssk, k to m
R3: sl1, k to end
R4: ssk, k to m
Repeat rows 3 and 4, 18 more times (after a few times the upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 4) -> there are now 30 "active" stitches for this trapezoid - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid.

Trapezoid 4
R1: place marker and pick up and knit 20 stitches from the slip stitch edge of the last trapezoid, then go on and knit the 30 sts left of the last but one trapezoid  -> between your stitch marker and the end there are now 50 stitches. The upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 3.
R2: ssk, k to m
R3: sl1, k to end
R4: ssk, k to m
Repeat rows 3 and 4, 18 more times (after a few times the upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 4) -> there are now 30 "active" stitches for this trapezoid - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid.

Repeat trapezoids 3 and 4 until your cowl has the desired length.
I knitted a total of 24 trapezoids since I prefer my cowls to be double-length, i.e. I like them to fit at least twice around my neck.

Cut yarn and leave long tail (enough to graft 30 stitches)

Put stitches from pCO on a new knitting needle (since I didn't have another 3.25mm needle – I used a slightly smaller one (3mm)). For orientation you might want to place a marker between the two first trapezoids (i.e. there will be 50 stitches for the very first trapezoid and 30 stitches for the 2nd).

Hold the last trapezoid you knitted and the 2nd trapezoid together (see photo 5) and graft together in garter stitch (30 sts) with the tail you left after knitting the last trapezoid.

From the side of the last trapezoid pick up 20 sts (please note that this is not pick up and knit). Combined with the stitches of the one but last trapezoid you now have 50 stitches on that needle.
Hold these stitches together with the provisional CO of the very first trapezoid (see photo 6) and graft in garter stitch.

Block gently.

Freitag, 28. Oktober 2016

Trial and Error ... or the Right Yarn for the Right Pattern

I recently had a new idea for a knitting pattern - something modular again -  I'm really into modular knits these days. Since I had just bought three skeins of beautiful Bilum yarn (link to their Etsy shop) at SwissWulleFestival, I wanted to use it for this idea. However, after a few repeats it became clear, that the pattern wouldn't show up as I wanted it to do. So I frogged it. This pattern clearly needed something with a longer color gradient.


I intend to do a different kind of cowl with this lovely yarn - probably something with texture (bobbles or similar). But not now!

However, I really wanted a cowl in blue to match a new winter jacket I just bought. And since I am currently (far) away from my stash and from most of my scarfs and cowls, I went to a department store and searched for something appropriate.
I ended up buying variegated lace yarn (Merino Extrafine 285 by Schachenmayr, Ravelry link to the yarn) and tried again. I am happier with the look of it now, because the construction is more visible than before ... but I guess it could even be better with a Zauberball or something similar. But I guess I will finish it nonetheless - it feels lovely to the touch and I hope it will keep me warm.



Mittwoch, 5. Oktober 2016

Patchwork Cowl

As the days get colder and greyer, knit yourself this lovely and colourful cowl. It is knitted flat and all in garter stitch. Due to its unique construction it brings out the best of your variegated yarn, e.g. your Zauberball or your Noro yarn. It is basically a variation of an entrelac pattern, but with blocks (squares and rectangles) of different sizes.



Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.







Materials
  • about 200 grams of fingering weight yarn - preferably variegated yarn
  • 3.25mm needles (straight or circulars) 
  • a third needle (for three-needle BO)
  • a tapestry needle (to weave in ends)


Techniques and Stitches


Construction
Figure X shows the general construction of the cowl. It is knitted flat and connected in the end (i.e. after the last layer or connected while knitting the last layer).

Figure 1: General Construction


Figure 2 shows how the layers make up the cowl. Odd-numbered layers consist of rectangles: 3 rectangles that are 8 stitches wide and 8 ridges high, and 2 rectangles that are 16 stitches wide and 16 ridges high. Even-numbered layers consist of rectangles: 3 that are 16 stitches wide and 8 ridges high, and 2 that are 8 stitches wide and 16 ridges high.
Rectangles/squares from one layer are knitted at a 90 degree angle to the knitting direction of the layer below.

Figure 2: Layers
In even numbered layers, rectangle 1 connects to square 5 of the layer below, rectangle 2 uses stitches picked up from square 5 of the layer below as base and is connected at the side to square of of the layer below, rectangle 3 is based on picked up stitches from the side of square 4 of the layer below and is connected to square 3 of the layer below ... and so on.

In layer 3 and the following odd numbered layers, square 1 is based on stitches from the side of rectangle 5 of the layer below and connected at the side to rectangle 4 of the layer below, and so on. The last square of an odd numbered layer is based on the stitches from rectangle 1 of the layer below and not connected while knitting it.


Instructions

Layer 1

Square 1 
CO8 stitches with knitted CO
Rows 1-16: sl1, k7

Square 2
CO 16 stitches with knitted CO (your piece should look as shown in photo 1 of picture A)
Rows 1-32: sl1, k15

Square 3 (=  Square 1)
CO8 stitches (with knitted CO)
Rows 1-16: sl1, k7

Square 4 (= Square 2)
CO 16 stitches with knitted CO 
Rows 1-32: sl1, k15
(Now your piece should look similar to photo 1 of picture A)

Square 5 (= Square 1)
CO8 stitches (with knitted CO)
Rows 1-16: sl1, k7


Layer 2

Rectangle 1
CO15 with knitted CO (your piece should now look like photo 3 of picture A)
Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 5 of layer below), turn
Row 2: sl1, k to end, turn
Row 3: sl1, k14, k2tog-join
Row 4: sl1, k to end, turn
Repeat rows 3 and 4 six (6) more times
Row 15: sl1 k14, k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 2
Pick up and knit 8 stitches
Row 1: sl1, k7, turn
Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 4 of layer below), turn
Row 3: sl1, k7, turn
Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.
Row 31: sl1, k6, k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 3
Pick up and knit 16 stitches
Row 1: sl1, k15, turn
Row 2: sl1, k14, k2tog-join, (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 3 of layer below), turn
Row 3: sl1, k15 turn
Repeat rows 2 and 3 six (6) more times
Row 15: sl1, k14,  k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 4
Pick up and knit 8 stitches
Row 1: sl1, k7, turn
Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 2 of layer below), turn
Row 3: sl1, k7, turn
Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.
Row 31: sl1, k6, k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 5
Pick up and knit 16 stitches
Row 1: sl1, k15, turn
Row 2: sl1, k14, k2tog-join, (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 1 of layer below), turn
Row 3: sl1, k15 turn
Repeat rows 2 and 3 six more times
Row  15: sl1, k14,  k2tog-join
Row 16: BO15 stitches

Picture A: Illustrations for Layers 1 and 2



Layer 3

Square 1
Row 1: pick up and knit 7 stitches from the side of the last rectangle (rectangle 5 of layer below), you have now 8 stitches on your needles
Row 2: sl1, k to end
Row 3: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 4 of layer below)
Repeat rows 2 and 3 six (6) times
Row 15: sl1, k to end
Row 16: sl1, k6 k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Square 2
Row 1: pick up and knit 16 stitches from the side of rectangle 4 of the layer below, TURN
Row 2: sl1, k15, TURN
Row 3: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 3 of layer below)
Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) times
Row 31: sl1, k15, TURN
Row 32: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with last stitch from rectangle 3 of layer below), DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Square 3
Row 1: pick up and knit 7 stitches from the side of the last rectangle (rectangle 3 of layer below), you have now 8 stitches on your needles
Row 2: sl1, k7, TURN
Row 3: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 2 of layer below)
Repeat rows 2 and 3  six (6) times
Row 15: sl1, k to end
Row 16: sl1, k6 k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction
  
Square 4
Row 1: pick up and knit 16 stitches from the side of rectangle 2 of the layer below, TURN
Row 2: sl1, k15, TURN
Row 3: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 1 of layer below)
Repeat rows 2 and 3  fourteen (14) times
Row 31: sl1, k15, TURN
Row 32: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with last stitch from rectangle 1 of layer below), DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Square 5
Row 1: pick up and knit 8 stitches from side of rectangle 1 of layer below
Rows 2-15: sl1, k7
DO NOT TURN but go on knitted CO of next layer


Repeat Layers 2 and 3 until the piece is roughly as long as you want it. Make sure to end with a layer 3.

 
Picture B: Illustrations for Last Layer



Last Layer

The last layer is basically the same as layer 2 with connections to the very first layer. This requires connecting the very first CO and connecting to the last knitted layer at the same time which can feel a bit awkward ... if you want to avoid this, you can just knit one more layer 2 and then sew the edges together.

However, here's how to do it without sewing.

Fold the scarf in a way so that the first layer faces the last layer with a gap about one layer wide (see photo 1 of picture B)

Rectangle 1
CO15 with knitted CO
With a third needle pick up 7 stitches from the CO of square 5 of the very first layer.
Rectangle 1 will not only be connected to the last layer but also to these stitches picked up from the first layer. See photo 2 in picture B.
Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 5 of layer below), turn
Row 2: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with first stitch picked up of side of square 5 of layer 1)
Row 3: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 5 of layer below)
Row 4: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 5 of layer 1)
Repeat rows 3 and 4 six (6) more times
Now you have 18 stitches left (16 from this rectangle and 2 from the squares of other layers). Transfer these stitches to one needle (-> working needle)
With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the side of square 4 of layer 1.
Your piece should now look like photo 3 of picture B
Row 15: do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle. (See photo 4 of picture B)

Rectangle 2
Pick up and knit 8 stitches (from the side of square 4 of the layer below)
With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the CO of square 4 of layer 1).
Rectangle 2 will be connected to square 4 of the layer below and square 4 of the first layer.
See photo 5 of picture B.
Row 1: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with square 4 of layer 1)
Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 4 of layer below), turn
Row 3: sl1, k7, k2tog-join (with square 4 of layer 1)
Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.
Now you have 10 stitches left (8 from this rectangle and two from the adjoining squares). Transfer these to one needle
With third needle pick up 8 stitches from the side of square 3 of layer 1.
Row 31:  do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle.

Rectangle 3
Pick up and knit 16 stitches
With a third needle pick up 7 stitches from the CO of square 3 of the very first layer.
Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 3 of layer below), turn
Row 2: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with first stitch picked up of side of square 3 of layer 1)
Row 3: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 3 of layer below)
Row 4: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 3 of layer 1)
Repeat rows 3 and 4 six (6) more times.
Now you have 18 stitches left (16 from this rectangle and 2 from the squares of other layers). Transfer these stitches to one needle (-> working needle)
With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the side of square 2 of layer 1.
Row 15: do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle.

Rectangle 4
Pick up and knit 8 stitches
With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the CO of square 2 of layer 1). See photo 6 of picture B.
Rectangle 2 will be connected to square 2 of the layer below and square 2 of the first layer.
Row 1: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with square 2 of layer 1)
Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 2 of layer below), turn
Row 3: sl1, k7, k2tog-join (with square 2 of layer 1)
Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.
Now you have 10 stitches left (8 from this rectangle and two from the adjoining squares). Transfer these to one needle
With third needle pick up 8 stitches from the side of square 1 of layer 1.
Row 31:  do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle.

Rectangle 5
Pick up and knit 16 stitches
With a third needle pick up 7 stitches from the CO of square 1 of the very first layer.
Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 1 of layer below), turn
Row 2: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with first stitch picked up of side of square 1 of layer 1)
Row 3: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 1 of layer below)
Row 4: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 1 of layer 1)
Repeat rows 3 and 4 seven (7) more times.
Row 18: BO all stitches  

Weave in ends and block gently.






Underground Crafter

Samstag, 9. Mai 2015

More Modular Knitting

After finishing the Little Rectangles Scarf I thought more about modular knitting patterns and the way they can be used to emphasize variegated yarn. So I tried out some patterns on paper and found that these Xs or crosses could be used as well.

I'm still not sure whether this pattern will work out - especially how to knit some of the crosses, the ones that need to be knitted upside down and then attached to the lower ones. Or maybe I have to think about it again ... But if it works, it will be an interesting scarf or blanket pattern.