Montag, 30. Dezember 2013

Tomatoes and Coffee - Short Socks

After knitting a pair of Charade socks (pattern by Sandra Park on Ravelry), I started to "research" other sock types and came across the "sweet tomato heel" technique - and I wanted to try it :)
(Another type of heel would be the yo-yo heel, ... maybe I'll try that one later ...)

So, these short socks use the sweet tomato-heel technique by Cat Bordhi (http://catbordhi.com/) and a stitch that's called coffee bean pattern (Kaffeebohnenmuster).

This is not a complete pattern, but just a rough sketch.




Techiques:
  • The "Coffee Bean Pattern" consists of 4 rows.
    Row 1: p1 k2 p1
    Row 2: p1 k1 yo k1
    Row 3: p1 k3 p1
    Row 4: p1 sl1 k2 psso p1

Instructions:
With 3.25mm needles CO60
With 2.5mm needles knit 10 rows of ribbing
Switch to 3mm needles and knit 3 sets of coffee bean pattern
Knit tomato heel (while knitting the full rounds, continue coffee bean pattern on the front third)
Continue the foot, knitting coffee bean pattern on the front third and stockinette on the backside (2 thirds).
When foot is long enough, do toe decreases and graft leftover stitches.

Montag, 23. Dezember 2013

Brioche in Montreux

I called this cowl "Brioche in Montreux" because I knitted part of it on the way to the Christmas market in Montreux.
A two-colour brioche technique is used with three cabling strands distributed around the cowl. Since it's a brioche pattern, it's reversible - both sides are equally attractive.

After blocking it had a circumference of 60 cm and a height of 29 cm.




Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Materials
  • 30-40 grams of fingering weight yarn (Colour A)
  • 30-40 grams of fingering weight yarn (Colour B)
  • 3.5mm circular needles
  • 3 stitch markers
  • tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Abbreviations
  • The abbreviations brk & yfsl1yo, brp & sl1yof are taken from briochestitch.com
  • C8F: make a front cross cable over 8 stitches, i.e. put 4 stitches (here this means on a cable needle and leave them in front of your piece, knit the next 4 stitches from the left needle (in this case the 4 stitches are knitted: sl1yof, brp, sl1yof, brp), then knit the 4 stitches from the cable needle (i.e.  sl1yof, brp, sl1yof, brp).
  • C8B: make a back cross cable over 8 stitches, i.e. put 4 stitches on a cable needle and leave them in the back of your piece,  knit the next 4 stitches from the left needle (in this case the 4 stitches are knitted: sl1yof, brp, sl1yof, brp), then knit the 4 stitches from the cable needle (i.e.  sl1yof, brp, sl1yof, brp).

Techniques


Instructions
CO120 stitches with colour B (white on the photo), placing a stitch marker after 40sts, 80 sts and 120 sts.
Join in round

Round 1a (Colour A): * p1 sl1yof (repeat from * to end)
Round 1b (Colour B): * yfsl1yo brk (repeat from * to end)
 
Round 2a (Colour A): * brp1 sl1yof (repeat from * to end of round)
Round 2b (Colour B): * yfsl1yo brk (repeat from * to end of round)

Repeat rounds 2a and 2b a total of 4 times


Round 5a (Colour A): * brp1 sl1yof (repeat from * a total of 3 times), C8F, +brp1 sl1yof (repeat from + to next marker);
    * brp1 sl1yof (repeat from * a total of 3 times), C8F, +brp1 sl1yof (repeat from + to next marker);
    * brp1 sl1yof (repeat from * a total of 3 times), C8F, +brp1 sl1yof (repeat from + to end of round)
Round 5b (Colour B): * yfsl1yo brk (repeat from * to end of round)

Repeat rounds 2a and 2b a total of 3 times

Round 9a (Colour A): brp 1 sl1yof, C8B, C8B *brp1 ysl1yof (repeat from * to next marker);
     brp 1 sl1yof, C8B, C8B *brp1 ysl1yof (repeat from * to next marker);
     brp 1 sl1yof, C8B, C8B *brp1 ysl1yof (repeat from * to next end of round)
Round 9b (Colour B): * yfsl1yo brk (repeat from * to end of round)

Repeat rounds 2a and 2b a total of 3 times

Round 13a = Round 5a
Round 13b = Round 5b

Repeat rounds 2a and 2b a total of 5 times - you have now completed round 18b

Repeat from round 5a to round 18b a total of 5 times, ending with round 17b - or until the cowl has reached your desired height.

Bind off in a p1k1-pattern using colour B. 

Weave in ends - and block.

Freitag, 13. Dezember 2013

Triangulation Wrist Warmers

Knitted in one piece without cutting the yarn, these mitts formed first in a triangular then diagonal shape. They are first knitted back and forth, then in the round, then back and forth and in the end in the round again. Since they are knitted in one piece, you won't have to cut your yarn and you'll only have two ends to weave in per mitt.

Since they don't cover much of the hands, they are rather wrist warmers than fingerless gloves. 






Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Materials
  • about 40 grams of fingering weight yarn
  • 2.5 mm needles
  • 3 (different) stitch markers

Techniques:



These mitts are constructed different from the normal in-the-round pattern (see picture). They are started at the lower edge with only 4 stitches CO. Then a triangle is knitted flat (part I); when the lower edge is wide enough, both ends are joined in the round and knitted upwards diagonally (part 2). Part 3 is knitted flat with decreases at the upper end, while part 4 is knitted in the round again, drecreasing again until thumb width is reached.





Part I - knitted flat:

CO4
Set-up row: k2 place marker k2 (this marker will be called middle marker)
Row 1: kfb; k to st before marker kfb; slip marker; kfb k to last stitch; kfb
Row 2: k
Repeat until there are 60 sts on your needles (or until the lower edge is wide enough to fit around your wrists).
End with row 1,
then join in round - place marker (this marker will be called end marker)

Part II - in the round:

Round 1: k
Round 2: k2tog; k until 1 st before middle marker; kfb; slip marker; kfb; k until 2 sts before end marker; ssk
Repeat these 2 rounds a total of 5 times

Round 11: p
Round 12: k2tog; k until 1 st before middle marker; kfb; slip marker; kfb; k until 2 sts before end marker; ssk
Repeat rounds 11 and 12 a total of 5 times

Round 21: k
Round 22: k2tog; k until 1 st before middle marker; kfb; slip marker; kfb; k until 2 sts before end marker; ssk
Repeat rounds 21 and 22 a total of 5 times

Round 31: p
Round 32: k2tog; k until 1 st before middle marker; kfb; slip marker; kfb; k until 2 sts before end marker; ssk
Repeat rounds 31 and 32 a total of 5 times

Round 41: k
Round 42: k2tog; k until 1 st before middle marker; kfb; slip marker; kfb; k until 2 sts before end marker; ssk
Repeat rounds 41 and 42 a total of 5 times

Afterwards k to middle marker - remove marker; and TURN WORK.

Part III - knitted flat:

Row 0: k to last stitch before end – before turning slip the last stitch to the right needle and - using a crochet hook - draw the working yarn through the first BO stitch, put the loop on the left needle, move the last (not yet knitted) stitch back to the left needle, knit the two stitches together. This avoids the little gap between the first bind-off stitch and the last stitch of the row. (See picture on the right)

Row 1: ssk; k until the last two stitches; k2tog
Row 2: k
Row 3: ssk; k until two stitches before marker; ssk; slip marker; k2tog; k until two stitches before end; k2tog
Row 4: k
Repeat rows 1-3 rows once more.



Row 9: p
Row 10: ssk; k until the last two stitches; k2tog
Row 11: p
Row 12:  ssk; k until two stitches before marker; ssk; slip marker; k2tog; k until two stitches before end; k2tog
(if you started part 2 at 60 stitches, you should now have 40 sts on your needles)


Place marker and add 20 stitches by using a knitted cast on – place marker (this is the new „round end marker“) join in round (see picture on the left).



Part IV & thumb - knitted in the round:

Round 1: k to second marker; at the upper edge: ssk *k1 p1 (repeat from * to two sts before) marker k2tog slip marker (this creates a small ribbing at the upper edge to prevent it from rolling)

Repeat this round once more.

Round 3: ssk k to two stitches before marker k2tog, repeat once more; at the upper edge: ssk *k1 p1 (repeat from * to two sts before) marker k2tog slip marker

Round 4 = Round 3

Round 5: k

Repeat Round 3 to 5 a total of three times – if you started part 2 at 60 stitches, you should now have 18 sts on your needles.


For the thumb, knit 9 rounds of k2 p1-ribbing, bind off in pattern in 10th round.

Weave in ends.